A Bridge to Bake For
by Corinne Seminoff

The last time I was in Russia was in June 2001. I was there in my "CBC Producer" capacity to cover Toronto's bid for the 2008 Olympics. After living in the country for 8 yrs (1986-1994) I try to visit there once every 2-5 years to see my friends, get my "Russian fix", reconnect with my Russian soul.

In September I had the privilege of going back again but this time on a very personal journey to reconnect not only with my Russian roots but with my Doukhobor roots. The CBC which usually takes me abroad, had locked out its employees because of a contract dispute. I had not been working for 7 weeks so the trip to Russia was certainly in financial peril. But thanks to my parents and their generosity, I was able to go for 10 days.

The purpose of this visit was to attend the grand opening of the Doukhobor Bakery/Cafe and Communication Centre on the site of the Leo Tolstoy Estate at Yasnaya Polyana. A dream that was born out of the1999 Centennial, celebrating100 years since the arrival of Doukhobors to Canada. The project was conceived to show our boundless gratitude to Leo Tolstoy for supporting us in our time of desperation over a hundred years ago in czarist Russia. Without his help and dedication to our plight, we surely would not be living in Canada today. The café-bakery is our way of saying "Spassibo" (thank you).

I was never directly involved with any of the tireless work that was put into the project but every few years or so I would cross paths with some of the key people spearheading this most noble endeavor. Namely Alex Jmaeff whom I met several times over the years, in Moscow when I lived there, in Shoreacres at his home when the great, great grandson of Leo Tolstoy, Vladimir came to visit, and a few more times in between.

So it was only fitting and comforting that Alex would be the first person I saw as our bus rolled into Yasnaya Polyana from Moscow. I had joined a group of Doukhobors who had traveled all the way from BC for a 3 week odyssey combining Russian tourist sites with excursions and trips to historical Doukhobor destinations. For about half the group, it was their first time to Russia. But for Alex Jmaeff it must have been about his 20th!

He and his wife Natasha and Peter Rezansoff and his wife Elsie, had arrived about a week before the opening to do the final touches and last minute preparations on the bakery before the big event on Sept 21st. The Jmaeff's son, Yuri, also took time out from his own bakery in Creston, to help mom and dad fire up the new "Cadillac" style ovens and equipment that had been purchased from Europe. Over $100,000 dollars had been raised over the last 6 years, mostly from donations from people who believed in the project, Doukhobors and non Doukhobors and Friends of Tolstoy near and far.

It was 3 days to the opening when we arrived on the scene. As we descended from our bus with our bags, Alex emerged from behind the birch treed area between our little hotel on the estate, and the old nurses quarters which was now converted to a hip looking new Baker/Cafe, and on the upper floors, a little boutique of European style rooms that folks could rent on a short term basis while they visit the estate.

Alex greeted us with his familiar ear-to-ear smile and such a positive and confident exuberance, that we automatically felt like we had come home. I told him I would like to write an article about the trip and before I even had a chance to check in, I was told to abandon my bags in the lobby and follow him to the bakery for a private excursion.

Alex gave me a tour of the facility starting with the café on the ground floor and then heading down to the basement where the bakery is housed. A lot of work had been done in the last 6 years but as Alex pointed out they were not quite there yet. In fact it soon became evident that there was still an enormous amount of work to do before the grand opening in 3 days. Russian construction workers were still on the scene installing some of the more basic requirements…electrical wiring and light fixtures, things that should've been done ages ago Alex pointed out. But this is still Russia, and the Russian attitudes towards work and deadlines still harks back to the days of communist indifference and lethargy.

Despite traveling back and forth to Russia numerous times over the years to lay the groundwork for the project, finding the workers, ordering equipment, installing it, dealing with the many layers of bureaucracy that still exist, overseeing the renovations and reconstruction of the facility, there is only so much one man can do. Trying to accomplish something like this in a country like Russia, one has to be prepared, that with every one step forward, there will likely be two steps back. So when the Jmaeff's and Rezansoff's arrived a week earlier, they saw more steps taken back than taken forward. Suddenly it all seemed too overwhelming to complete before the set date for the opening and a serious discussion ensued between the Jmaeff's, Rezansoff's and the great, great grandson himself, Vladimir Tolstoy. The temptation was to put the opening off till spring. How were they possibly going to get it all done in a week? There were so many last minute details that had to be dealt with; translating English recipes into Russian, converting imperial measurements into metric, trying to track down the last piece of equipment, a freezer from Portugal that wasn't in yet. Those were the easy problems. But how could they concentrate on this when all the electrical wiring wasn't even connected?

The initial panic didn't last long though. Panic turned into persistence and perseverance. They didn't get this far without it and with only one week to go, they needed to tap into that pool of positive energy one more time. Somehow it would all get done.

They had hired a couple of Russian women to be their assistants and eventually take over running the bakery. But that too had its challenges. Yuri's main task was to prepare the baked goods for the opening and to teach the Russian women how to bake fine French pastries, with the ultra modern technology from Italy and Scandinavia. But even Yuri had to study the "how to" manual several times before turning on the ovens. They were ten times more sophisticated than anything he was used to using back in BC.

Although almost all the ingredients one needs to make baguettes, croissants, Danish and cinnamon buns is now readily available in mega shopping centers in most big Russian cities, still I was surprised that one could just drive out of the Tolstoy estate to the neighboring town of Tula (pop 600,000) and buy cream cheese and chocolate chips! This could not have been possible a mere 5 to 6 years ago. Back when I still lived here, before the collapse of the Soviet Union, basic things like sugar and salt and flour, were in chronic short supply. Yuri explained that although all the ingredients were locally bought, it took a couple of "trial and error" attempts, and slight adjustments to standard recipes to get the right consistency for the various pastry doughs. The flour and sugar and baking soda were all different, different grades of quality than what he was used to using at home. So what usually would take him an hour to make at home, was taking 3 hours here.

I was still getting over the shock that you could buy chocolate chips in Tula.

The bakery is impressive! Ultra modern and a stark contrast to the historic, romantic, and nostalgic "pay sage" (landscape) that unfolds outside its doors at the gates of the estate. Scenes from Tolstoy's "War and Peace' or "Anna Karenina" seemed to transpire naturally from this serene and tranquil setting which itself is steeped in history of the greatest Russian novelist of all time. The bakery makes one feel the passage of time, the decades that have gone by since our ancestors walked on similar soil longing to find their true home. The bakery speaks to generations of Russians and Doukhobors who have maintained cultural ties and a mutual respect for one another. And it also speaks to a longing in each and every Doukhobor to belong, to be heard and understood, and be with our own, if not physically than spiritually. The bakery, for all its shine and glitter still possesses a Russian/Doukhobor soul.

I couldn't have felt that more, than the day before the opening as I was making my way towards the building. The smell of old Russian oak trees and mushrooms hidden under damp foliage in the ground was suddenly overtaken by the sweet aroma of fresh bread baking in a distant oven. It was a very exciting moment for me to see the fruits, or rather, the buns and bread of a dream finally being fulfilled. The Jmaeff's and Rezansoff's had no time to be nostalgic at this late stage. They had a lot on their minds. Alex was darting back and forth between one oven to another, with his calculator, converting measurements and settings. Yuri had 3-4 different dough mixes on the go and was trying to explain to a young and slightly overwhelmed pastry chef what chocolate éclairs were. Natasha and Elsie were planning another shopping spree at the local Tula supermarket for last minute supplies, molds for Yuri's pastries, cream and sugar bowls. Peter Rezansoff was explaining that a shipment of chairs came in for the communications room, but surprise, surprise they were not the ones they ordered, but for now, they would have to do.

In all this slightly chaotic and frenetic activity, with the pressure mounting that the grand opening go off without a hitch, what struck me most of all was how calm and logical everyone seemed to be. I must say being in the presence of the Jmaeff's and Rezansoff's for those days made me feel we couldn't have picked a better group to take on such a challenge. They are people who exude a balance of spirit and logic, a strength and positive energy and the ultimate belief that everything will fall into its rightful place. Like the inscription on the foundation stone reads "Do what must be done, and what will be, will be". The ability to laugh at the ironies and problems at the end of the day just made the whole experience with them even more enjoyable. Maybe there were times they had their doubts but to me the fact that their hearts and souls were in it 100% was all that mattered and gave me the confidence that it would all turn out in the end.

Most people have heard about the café-bakery but the Canadian Doukhobors and Friends of Tolstoy, with their generous donations over the last 6 years, also contributed to the set up of a communications room in the little hotel next to the café-bakery. This too was very impressive, especially for someone like me who checks her e-mail almost 10 times a day, I was quite shocked to discover there were two brand new computers that had internet access and a board room with a large conference table, a projector and a screen almost as good as anything you'd get at a Four Seasons Hotel. Peter Rezansoff is the brains and heart behind this project and even kicked in a five figure monetary contribution from his own pocket to put the final touches on the room. Peter was also instrumental in developing a video about the historical relationship between the Doukhobors and Leo Tolstoy, presented from Tolstoy's perspective, taken from excerpts of his letters and writings to the Doukhobors at the time of their exile and desire to leave Russia. We had the privilege to see a preview screening of both the Russian and English version of the 20 minute video, which will soon be available on line, in DVD form and possibly on VHS for everyone to see. Peter narrates both versions which are done very stylishly with black and white photos, and background audio of Doukhobor hymns. Everyone agreed unanimously that our younger generations should see this. Many people do not realize how significant our relationship with Tolstoy was and how significant he was in his own right as a writer, a novelist, a Russian intellectual, who had a lasting impact on world literature, religion and culture. This production will give people a glimpse of the impetus behind Tolstoy's support for the Doukhobors and their struggle.

The day everyone was waiting for arrived earlier for some than for others. The grand opening was scheduled to begin at 5pm but Yuri and the ovens were up and running at 4 am! In true Slavic fashion, he baked enough to feed an army in the middle of a famine! There must have been 20 different kinds of pastries; Danishes, cream puffs, chocolate éclairs, squares, cookies, and a giant layered cake with an inch of frosting on it and decorated with the Friends of Tolstoy logo. The local Tula television crew showed up to do some shooting and interviews earlier in the day, but most of the other media and dignitaries were attending an even bigger event just outside of Tula where thousands were gathering to commemorate the 625 year anniversary of the Battle of Kulikova which was fought by the Tartars and the Mongols against the Russians in 1380. Many of the officials who were invited to the grand opening of the bakery were unfortunately also expected at this other momentous event in Russian history, including President Putin and the Patriarch of Russia. Even Vladimir Tolstoy had to race back from the Kulikova ceremony to the more humble commemoration at Yasnaya Polyana.

Certainly not on the scale of the Kulikova anniversary down the road, about 200 people gathered outside the sweetest smelling building on the Tolstoy Estate. Many Russian Doukhobors from the neighboring village of Archangelskoye came, including a small choir in traditional and colorful old style Russian dress. These were the descendants of the Doukhobors who never left Russia when they had the chance. Over the years we have stayed in contact with them, maintaining a mutual bond through letter writing and visits to each other's countries. Their lives in Russia have improved little since the time of the Czars 100 years ago, and to them we in Canada live like kings. The group that was here on this day from Archangelskoye had actually migrated about 10 years ago from the republic of Georgia, the village of Gorelovka. Their life there was harsh. They had no freedom to practice their religion, no work, the climate was unbearable and they never felt like they were accepted by the Georgians. They appealed to the Russian authorities to help them leave and their request was granted. They were settled in the village of Archangelskoye. The first few years were full of hardships. They were living in steel containers with no running water, waiting years for permanent housing to be built. Today most of them are living in their own homes, but conditions are not ideal. Hot water is still a luxury. Archangelskoye is a typical Russian village with the typical village problems…economically poor, lack of infrastructure, lack of industry or work, lack of appeal for younger generations to stay on. I wondered, on this day that we were thanking Tolstoy for coming to our aide over a100 years ago, if the ones who stayed felt a painful regret they could not thank him for changing their destiny in the same way.

So there we were gathered…a small group of Doukhobors…Russian and Canadian. The ones who never left Russia and the ones who did but always longed to return. Both groups feeling the pressures of modern life and assimilation, the struggle to maintain traditions of the past, to live by the values our forefathers struggled and died for, while coping with the day to day challenges of living in today's modern world. With each group slightly envious of the other. Each group thinking the other is at an advantage to preserve the traditions and culture of Doukhoborism, to keep the language and beliefs alive and thriving in their particular environment and at the same time each group claiming their culture and traditions are in a crisis, that they are witnessing the deterioration and slow death of Doukhoborism right before their eyes. Our similarities were as close as our differences were wide and all because of the man we had gathered today to thank. Leo Tolstoy.

There were many speeches attempting to capture the significance of this day. One by one they came to the microphone; Vladimir Illyich Tolstoy, John J Verigin Jr., Alex Jmaeff, Peter Rezansoff, Alexei Kinakin…some in Russian some in English, each one moved and touched in their own way, spoke for the rest of us who were all there on our own personal voyage, our own road of discovery of who we are and where we came from.

Everyone had something moving to say, but the single theme that rang loud and clear above all else was that the bakery represented a living bridge between our two countries; between the past and present; between the Canadian Doukhobors and the Doukhobors of Russia; between Tolstoy and all Doukhobors. A living bridge that will unite all of us for many generations to come. The hope that the bakery will be a reason for future generations to visit the estate and connect with their past, to feel their roots, their Russian soul and identity. It may be a long way to come for a cream puff but it will be worth it!

Each choir then sang, first individually and then together and on that harmonic note the official part of the grand opening had concluded. From there everyone went inside to put the bakery to a real taste test.

I tried to get into the room to take pictures of the table laden with decadent baked goods but it was about twenty rows deep with people. I had already warned Yuri and his parents that they had baked way too much and what would they do with all the leftovers?

Leftovers…I was soon to be reminded, is a truly Canadian phenomenon. On my second attempt to get into the room I was almost run down by a convoy of Russian guests, each one with a Himalayan mountain of pastries on their plate, pushing to get out but almost colliding with another convoy of Russian guests trying to get in for seconds.

The pastries were truly a hit and by the time I got into the room there was nothing left but crumbs.

I think Alex Jmaeff put it well in his speech earlier: "As an artisan baker for over 40 years, I was often more preoccupied with nourishing people's physical appetites rather than their philosophical intellect. I am grateful for having had an opportunity to be a part of an undertaking that will nourish both body and soul".

A bakery and a bridge to nourish both the body and soul and our way of saying thank you "Dedushka" (Grandpa) Tolstoy!

Corinne Seminoff